Staring out the balcony at the Frederica River
The elegant curve of the car bridge in the distance
The water quiet and peaceful
I want to stay out here and write but the humidity
Is seeping through my skin into my bones
There are marshlands all around this island
St. Simon’s
That island that inspired Eugenia Price
To live and write here

There have been poems and books and stories
Written about this place
With its stately plantations, ancient oaks, and Spanish moss
The graveyard we visited today
Right outside Christ Church
Where John Wesley once preached
And presidents have attended
Was far prettier than any graveyard I have ever seen
The rich history of beloved names
Carved into stone of every size and shape
The tiny gravestones the saddest ones
A three-year old killed by a runaway wagon
The kinds of real-life stories that made Eugenia Price’s historical fiction so sad



She, too, is here. Or her body is. She died a year before I married
Before I had ever imagined living in the south
With its lilting accents, its rich food, its warm and often humid summers
I reflect for a bit on what it has been like living as a Yankee in the south
The places where I was warmly welcomed and the places I was not
The history I have tried so hard to understand
The obsession with place
The setting here is its own character in the story


But I have lived here now for what is soon to be thirty years
More of my life lived here than lived anywhere else
I lived the life of a nomad for much of my life
Moving every three years
Never very strongly attached to any one place
But I think perhaps I am attached now
Somehow the south has gotten a hold of me
Like the vines that twist around the trunks of the old oak trees
And the vast beauty of this place
The hospitality of its people
Is just as much a part of my story as the firths of Scotland
The cherry blossoms of Japan
The hibiscus flowers of Guam
The Amish wagons of Pennsylvania, swan boats of Boston
Or crab cakes of Baltimore

I climbed a lighthouse today
It was a lot of steps
I wondered how the keepers did it all day long
Keeping the light going
Before everything became automated
The importance of something as simple as a light
Pointing the way for boats to come to shore
How the confederate soldiers blew up the original lighthouse
So the Yankee soldiers wouldn’t be able to use it
And I realized I was imagining being a southerner then
Fleeing the island
Burying the silver in hopes the soldiers wouldn’t find it
But they almost always did


Somehow I’ve been here long enough
To imagine myself a native in this land
Even though I’m quite sure I am still solidly considered a Yankee
By many of my friends
Too honest for my own good
Still too quick to get to the point
Not always enjoying gentle conversation about our families
Sitting out on porches drinking sweet tea
Always wanting to be doing something
Accomplishing something
Always moving
Almost never still

In that, I think, the south has been good for me
I wonder if I would have burned out in the north
Where everyone was always busy
Southern is still a second language to me
This slow and easy hospitality
It is a language that has made me appreciate
The people and the culture here
Much more than I ever thought I would

Somehow God knew
That after a lifetime of constant moving
I would need a place where I could learn to be still
Where I could put down roots
Where I could learn to speak a little more slowly
Where I could learn the importance of place

The cottage is still my favorite place on earth
I still put sugar in my grits
And I still dislike gravy on biscuits
But I love sweet tea and corn bread
And I love so much about this place
This people
The south is not just a place where I live
It has become my home

